Author |
Message |
Topic: Good figures for 25mm Greeks |
Michael Bard
Replies: 15
Views: 23438
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:09 pm Subject: Good figures for 25mm Greeks |
Sadly the standing Ral Partha figures don't mix with any of the other companies. Ral Partha is true 25mm, the rest are 28mm-30mm.
Now, Ral Partha does make a KNEELING hoplite that works quite well ... |
Topic: Good figures for 25mm Greeks |
Michael Bard
Replies: 15
Views: 23438
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2006 4:23 am Subject: Good figures for 25mm Greeks |
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say Ral Partha...
Yes, the Foundry figures are nice, but NONE OF THEM ARE IN THE PHALANX! Virtually NONE of the figures hold their shield in the proper guard ... |
Topic: Decapitation? |
Michael Bard
Replies: 9
Views: 15353
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 7:37 am Subject: Decapitation? |
Wargames Foundry makes Greek casualties, I use them for unit status markers. As to popping off heads, I'd use either a razor saw (if you wanted to keep the head) or a pair of heavy wire cutters if yo ... |
Topic: Decal softener/solvent |
Michael Bard
Replies: 7
Views: 9393
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 5:49 am Subject: Decal softener/solvent |
Greg, I use transfers for the GW stuff I paint (hey! It's simple when I'm too tired to think). I have used some for historicals if it is a common complex shape because transfers simply look better. |
Topic: Painting Resin Buildings |
Michael Bard
Replies: 4
Views: 7145
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 5:48 am Subject: Painting Resin Buildings |
I'd try a small portion of a building first. The paint won't hurt it, but there are some resin pieces that I've had to scrup vigorously with a toothbrush and soap to get the mold release off. If the ... |
Topic: Decal softener/solvent |
Michael Bard
Replies: 7
Views: 9393
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:00 pm Subject: Decal softener/solvent |
When I use the softener, I first stick the transfers on normally (water, slide, pat down). I let the water dry, and then brush the softener overtop. AFter 10 minutes or so I use a dry papertowl and ... |
Topic: Spartiates, Lakedaimonians, and their lackeys... |
Michael Bard
Replies: 11
Views: 16659
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:21 am Subject: Spartiates, Lakedaimonians, and their lackeys... |
Well, if you're doing it in 15mm, I STRONGLY recommend doing the shield designs with transfers. If I was starting over again, I'd using transfers for my Spartiates for the crisper lines.
If you do ... |
Topic: Spartiates, Lakedaimonians, and their lackeys... |
Michael Bard
Replies: 11
Views: 16659
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 5:36 am Subject: Spartiates, Lakedaimonians, and their lackeys... |
I feel silly for having missed the "crimson" bit. He's right, I'm wrong.
However, one thought for the other Greeks. A lot of hoplites used the same colourization as Spartans to try and ... |
Topic: Spartiates, Lakedaimonians, and their lackeys... |
Michael Bard
Replies: 11
Views: 16659
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Forum: Painting and Modeling Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 8:23 pm Subject: Spartiates, Lakedaimonians, and their lackeys... |
The Spartiates adopted the Lamba symbol in the 420s to the best of my knowledge. Anything before that their shields were as variable as anybody else's.
For pure Spartiates I would go with all red ... |
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