Warrior Ancient and Medieval Rules

Here's a cheezy but effective trick on primering. Use Wal-Mart $.99 flat white
spray paint. After the fig has dried, blackwash with thinned black paint. After
that dries use a clean dry brush and brush the fig. You will remove the black on
the highest points on the fig leaving the recesses black, great for creating
natural tones. Maybe a bit extreme for some, but would work well on your
Generals and special pieces....



WarriorRules@yahoogroups.com wrote:

There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. New Warrior Tourney Date and Location
From: JonCleaves@...
2. Priming
From: Christian and Sarah
3. Re: Re: Priming
From: "Donald Coon"


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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 21:43:46 EDT
From: JonCleaves@...
Subject: New Warrior Tourney Date and Location

The tourney originally scheduled for Border Wars 05 is now:


Warrior Tournament
Sponsored by the Dead General’s Society
Begins 1000 Saturday Oct 15 2004 at TABLETOP GAME AND HOBBY in Lenexa, KS
This is the farewell tourney at TTG as it moves to new digs the following
week...
1600 points, 15mm
6'x4' tables, 4 terrain features.
Three 3.5 hour rounds beginning Saturday 15 October at 1000.

Tourney Rules:
360 pace deployment area
Revised terrain selection rules:
1. If both armies in home climate, no one gets +1.
2. No + 1 for dunes in warm, cold, tropical and no =1 for woods, marsh, bog
in dry.
Game Master: Jon Cleaves




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 22:03:15 -0400
From: Christian and Sarah
Subject: Priming

I'd like to second Todd's use of home depot flat black.

I prime everything twice. Once with any flat black that is cheap, going
slowly and getting EVERY low spot, and then again a day later with
rustolium red/brown. I dislike the "too dark" nature of black shadow,
but have grown too lazy to use white primer for anything but very
bright, multi-drybrush layered fancy stuff, so my compromise is the
red/brown over black. Straight from the can, you'll be surprised at how
much color layering you can do over black, from a really dark brown to a
near red, just by moving the can closer or farther. The result is a
solid undercoat that lasts for years, AND variable, warm (colored) base
for painting. It is especially effective under flesh, browns and tans,
and reds--which are colors that most historical armies seem to use a
great deal... It saves hours of painting on horses...
Tjhere is also (and I ain't joking) a morale advantage for the
painter. once you learn to airbrush from the can, you'll layer browns
over the black with ease and the result (with some black low-lights
left) will look remarkably "finished" which I find helps me turn 63 figs
of primed lead into 63 Scythian nobles with less feeling of "oh help!
I'll never finish these poor blighters!"

As usual, just my two cents.

>
>




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 05:48:51 -0500
From: "Donald Coon"
Subject: Re: Re: Priming

This is what I use as well.

Don

> Chris,
>
> Personally, I use a flat black can of spray paint as my primer - right
> from Home Depot. Primer seems too gritty for me and a nice coat of black
> spray paint does the job for me everytime.
>
> Todd Kaeser


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