Warrior Ancient and Medieval Rules

Hi Greek
First I glue sand to the base with diluted white glue, and add small
stones/gravel. Once dry, I paint in a yellow ochre, and then I drybrush with a
lighter color. Then I put white glue in some zones and glue a mix of green
foliage from Woodland Scenics. The result it is nice.
Emilio.


Question:



I have just based a bunch of newly painted (or reconditioned) 25mm guys

on Litko precut plywood bases. I'm very plpeased. However, I'm not sure

how to flock. Is there any reason that my 15mm method of painting the

bases with 1/2 Elmers Glue and 1/2 dark paint and dipping in blended

turf will not work. I've seen suggestions abiout using modeling goop

and such, but I hesitate to embark on a new system, and what's that

stuff called again?



Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases, but it

doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this

happen before? Explanations?



Thanks for any insight.



-Greek













SPONSORED LINKS




Miniature wargaming


Wargaming


Warrior


















YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS






Visit your group "WarriorRules" on the web.


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WarriorRules-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Bill Chriss]

Question:

I have just based a bunch of newly painted (or reconditioned) 25mm guys
on Litko precut plywood bases. I'm very plpeased. However, I'm not sure
how to flock. Is there any reason that my 15mm method of painting the
bases with 1/2 Elmers Glue and 1/2 dark paint and dipping in blended
turf will not work. I've seen suggestions abiout using modeling goop
and such, but I hesitate to embark on a new system, and what's that
stuff called again?

Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases, but it
doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this
happen before? Explanations?

Thanks for any insight.

-Greek

I've always used acrylic gel medium to blend the figure's bases into their
movement stands (in 15mm) to good effect, larger figs I've used that as a first
step before putting down a thin coat of white glue, sprinkling on fine gravel
and then painting/drybrushing the whole base and finally adding static grass or
some other used sparingly afterwards. The gel medium will destroy a brush, so
use a cheap one...try using it more like a trowel than a brush in order to get
the medium between the figs feet and between figs as well. Hope that helps.

hrisikos@... wrote: Question:

I have just based a bunch of newly painted (or reconditioned) 25mm guys
on Litko precut plywood bases. I'm very plpeased. However, I'm not sure
how to flock. Is there any reason that my 15mm method of painting the
bases with 1/2 Elmers Glue and 1/2 dark paint and dipping in blended
turf will not work. I've seen suggestions abiout using modeling goop
and such, but I hesitate to embark on a new system, and what's that
stuff called again?

Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases, but it
doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this
happen before? Explanations?

Thanks for any insight.

-Greek



SPONSORED LINKS
Miniature wargaming Wargaming Warrior

---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "WarriorRules" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
WarriorRules-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


---------------------------------





---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC for low, low
rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I second Greek's suggestion about the use of gel medium as a basing
substance. You can get it at any art supply store. It usually comes in
a largish jar (about 1 pint or 473 ml.).

I use a type called Coarse Pumice Gel, which I trowel on using a
artist's palette knife. It dries hard and porous, but not brittle hard
like plaster; there is a bit of elasticity to it. The nature of the
stuff is to look gravelly, so there is no need to add bits of gravel.
There's always some slop when I apply it, so I trim the edges with an
X-Acto knife after it dries.

I usually paint it with a heavy wash of a muddy brown color. After that
dries, I dry brush a lighter tan. The uneven, porous surface of the
dried gel allows for very nice results from this technique.

Finally, I flock it with some kind of Woodland Scenics flocking. I've
been using the static grass for my 15s, but I'll probably go back to
using layers of the standard flocking for my current 28mm project. I
typically apply a lighter green or "burnt grass" color and then a
deeper green over that. I always leave a lot of unflocked blotches so
that all the nice drybrushed dirt shows through in several spots.

Also, I've learned that the best glue to use for flocking is a craft
glue called "Mod Podge." It's used a lot for decoupage crafts and is
slower drying and more elastic than typical white glue. The slow-drying
aspect is important for static grass, because it allows more of the
stuff to stick.

It's easier to do that I describe. I am nothing if not lazy when it
comes to painting, so it may be many steps--but they're all east steps.

-David


On Mar 26, 2006, at 8:22 AM, Doug Pegram wrote:

> I've always used acrylic gel medium to blend the figure's bases into
> their movement stands (in 15mm) to good effect, larger figs I've used
> that as a first step before putting down a thin coat of white glue,
> sprinkling on fine gravel and then painting/drybrushing the whole base
> and finally adding static grass or some other used sparingly
> afterwards. The gel medium will destroy a brush, so use a cheap
> one...try using it more like a trowel than a brush in order to get the
> medium between the figs feet and between figs as well. Hope that
> helps.
>
> hrisikos@... wrote: Question:
>
> I have just based a bunch of newly painted (or reconditioned) 25mm
> guys
> on Litko precut plywood bases. I'm very plpeased. However, I'm not sure
> how to flock. Is there any reason that my 15mm method of painting the
> bases with 1/2 Elmers Glue and 1/2 dark paint and dipping in blended
> turf will not work. I've seen suggestions abiout using modeling goop
> and such, but I hesitate to embark on a new system, and what's that
> stuff called again?
>
> Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases, but
> it
> doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this
> happen before? Explanations?
>
> Thanks for any insight.
>
> -Greek
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Miniature wargaming Wargaming Warrior
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
> Visit your group "WarriorRules" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> WarriorRules-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC for
> low, low rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

[Jeff Zorn]

Howdy,

That's exactly the purpose, to show some patches of dirt. FWIW I use
latex caulk, mix with a basic earth color latex paint, and add sand
to that. Once that drys comes wash, dry brush and flocking.

Jeff Zorn

At 02:52 PM 3/26/2006, you wrote:
>David,
>
> Thanks. However, I am not sure what the pumice gel adds to what the
>bases would look like if I just painted glue directly on the bases and
>applied loose woodland scenics grass flock. Is the pumice used just to
>show through in spots that there is dirt under the flocking? Sorry for
>my ignorance. I am new to 25mm.
>
>-Greek

[Bill Chriss]

David,

Thanks. However, I am not sure what the pumice gel adds to what the
bases would look like if I just painted glue directly on the bases and
applied loose woodland scenics grass flock. Is the pumice used just to
show through in spots that there is dirt under the flocking? Sorry for
my ignorance. I am new to 25mm.

-Greek



> I second Greek's suggestion about the use of gel medium as a basing
> substance. You can get it at any art supply store. It usually comes in
> a largish jar (about 1 pint or 473 ml.).
>
> I use a type called Coarse Pumice Gel, which I trowel on using a
> artist's palette knife. It dries hard and porous, but not brittle hard
> like plaster; there is a bit of elasticity to it. The nature of the
> stuff is to look gravelly, so there is no need to add bits of gravel.
> There's always some slop when I apply it, so I trim the edges with an
> X-Acto knife after it dries.
>
> I usually paint it with a heavy wash of a muddy brown color. After that
> dries, I dry brush a lighter tan. The uneven, porous surface of the
> dried gel allows for very nice results from this technique.
>
> Finally, I flock it with some kind of Woodland Scenics flocking. I've
> been using the static grass for my 15s, but I'll probably go back to
> using layers of the standard flocking for my current 28mm project. I
> typically apply a lighter green or "burnt grass" color and then a
> deeper green over that. I always leave a lot of unflocked blotches so
> that all the nice drybrushed dirt shows through in several spots.
>
> Also, I've learned that the best glue to use for flocking is a craft
> glue called "Mod Podge." It's used a lot for decoupage crafts and is
> slower drying and more elastic than typical white glue. The slow-drying
> aspect is important for static grass, because it allows more of the
> stuff to stick.
>
> It's easier to do that I describe. I am nothing if not lazy when it
> comes to painting, so it may be many steps--but they're all east steps.
>
> -David
>
>
> On Mar 26, 2006, at 8:22 AM, Doug Pegram wrote:
>
>> I've always used acrylic gel medium to blend the figure's bases into
>> their movement stands (in 15mm) to good effect, larger figs I've used
>> that as a first step before putting down a thin coat of white glue,
>> sprinkling on fine gravel and then painting/drybrushing the whole base
>> and finally adding static grass or some other used sparingly
>> afterwards. The gel medium will destroy a brush, so use a cheap
>> one...try using it more like a trowel than a brush in order to get the
>> medium between the figs feet and between figs as well. Hope that
>> helps.
>>
>> hrisikos@... wrote: Question:
>>
>> I have just based a bunch of newly painted (or reconditioned) 25mm
>> guys
>> on Litko precut plywood bases. I'm very plpeased. However, I'm not sure
>> how to flock. Is there any reason that my 15mm method of painting the
>> bases with 1/2 Elmers Glue and 1/2 dark paint and dipping in blended
>> turf will not work. I've seen suggestions abiout using modeling goop
>> and such, but I hesitate to embark on a new system, and what's that
>> stuff called again?
>>
>> Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases, but
>> it
>> doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this
>> happen before? Explanations?
>>
>> Thanks for any insight.
>>
>> -Greek
>>
>>
>>
>> SPONSORED LINKS
>> Miniature wargaming Wargaming Warrior
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>>
>>
>> Visit your group "WarriorRules" on the web.
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> WarriorRules-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>> Service.
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC for
>> low, low rates.
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--- In WarriorRules@yahoogroups.com, hrisikos@... wrote:
>
> Question:
>
<snip>
> Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases,
but it
> doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this
> happen before? Explanations?
>
> Thanks for any insight.
>
> -Greek
>
Hey Greek,

Some things to check on your bases. Get a piece of steel.
(Galvanized will work and is available from most home improvement
stores) Make sure that your magnets work. Some magnets will not
stick to metal. Making them not magnets I guess.
Litko aerosystems states that their 'Flexible Steel' will stick to
their magnets.
The magnets they use may be stronger then the ones you currently
use.
I have found that putting the magnets on the bottom of your figures
and using a metal tool box to be the all round best way of ensuring
that figures do not move in transit.

The pumice gel does two things:

1) It shows the dirt through the flocking
2) it provides substantial "bulk" to the base

The latter point makes it better to use than white glue and sand. White
glue has a tendency to flatten as it dries and you wind up with just a
bit of covering for your bases; you still see the bump of the figure
base. The pumice gel does a great job of piling up around the figure
bases and hides them very effectively.

I used to use wood filler, and spackle* before that, for the same
reason. The bulk of it lets you build up around the figure bases.

The coarse umice gel medium is gritty so when it dries the surface is
very uneven, but it's a subtler kind of unevenness that you get from
sand. It looks very convincing as natural ground. Also, because it's a
an artist's medium, you can add pigment to it so that it's kind of
pre-painted when you slap it on.

-David


*note: The word "spackle" has caused confusion on other newsgroups. I
think it's a very American term for this stuff. It basically wall board
plaster; the stuff you'd use for filling in a hole in the sheetrock.
Both wood filler and spackle are fairly brittle and I've had bits crack
off after a stand has fallen off the edge of the world.




On Mar 26, 2006, at 11:52 AM, hrisikos@... wrote:

> David,
>
> Thanks. However, I am not sure what the pumice gel adds to what the
> bases would look like if I just painted glue directly on the bases and
> applied loose woodland scenics grass flock. Is the pumice used just to
> show through in spots that there is dirt under the flocking? Sorry for
> my ignorance. I am new to 25mm.
>
> -Greek
>
>
>
>> I second Greek's suggestion about the use of gel medium as a basing
>> substance. You can get it at any art supply store. It usually comes in
>> a largish jar (about 1 pint or 473 ml.).
>>
>> I use a type called Coarse Pumice Gel, which I trowel on using a
>> artist's palette knife. It dries hard and porous, but not brittle hard
>> like plaster; there is a bit of elasticity to it. The nature of the
>> stuff is to look gravelly, so there is no need to add bits of gravel.
>> There's always some slop when I apply it, so I trim the edges with an
>> X-Acto knife after it dries.
>>
>> I usually paint it with a heavy wash of a muddy brown color. After
>> that
>> dries, I dry brush a lighter tan. The uneven, porous surface of the
>> dried gel allows for very nice results from this technique.
>>
>> Finally, I flock it with some kind of Woodland Scenics flocking. I've
>> been using the static grass for my 15s, but I'll probably go back to
>> using layers of the standard flocking for my current 28mm project. I
>> typically apply a lighter green or "burnt grass" color and then a
>> deeper green over that. I always leave a lot of unflocked blotches so
>> that all the nice drybrushed dirt shows through in several spots.
>>
>> Also, I've learned that the best glue to use for flocking is a craft
>> glue called "Mod Podge." It's used a lot for decoupage crafts and is
>> slower drying and more elastic than typical white glue. The
>> slow-drying
>> aspect is important for static grass, because it allows more of the
>> stuff to stick.
>>
>> It's easier to do that I describe. I am nothing if not lazy when it
>> comes to painting, so it may be many steps--but they're all east
>> steps.
>>
>> -David
>>
>>
>> On Mar 26, 2006, at 8:22 AM, Doug Pegram wrote:
>>
>>> I've always used acrylic gel medium to blend the figure's bases into
>>> their movement stands (in 15mm) to good effect, larger figs I've used
>>> that as a first step before putting down a thin coat of white glue,
>>> sprinkling on fine gravel and then painting/drybrushing the whole
>>> base
>>> and finally adding static grass or some other used sparingly
>>> afterwards. The gel medium will destroy a brush, so use a cheap
>>> one...try using it more like a trowel than a brush in order to get
>>> the
>>> medium between the figs feet and between figs as well. Hope that
>>> helps.
>>>
>>> hrisikos@... wrote: Question:
>>>
>>> I have just based a bunch of newly painted (or reconditioned) 25mm
>>> guys
>>> on Litko precut plywood bases. I'm very plpeased. However, I'm not
>>> sure
>>> how to flock. Is there any reason that my 15mm method of painting the
>>> bases with 1/2 Elmers Glue and 1/2 dark paint and dipping in blended
>>> turf will not work. I've seen suggestions abiout using modeling goop
>>> and such, but I hesitate to embark on a new system, and what's that
>>> stuff called again?
>>>
>>> Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases,
>>> but
>>> it
>>> doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this
>>> happen before? Explanations?
>>>
>>> Thanks for any insight.
>>>
>>> -Greek
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> SPONSORED LINKS
>>> Miniature wargaming Wargaming Warrior
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------
>>> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>>>
>>>
>>> Visit your group "WarriorRules" on the web.
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> WarriorRules-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>
>>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>>> Service.
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------
>>> New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC for
>>> low, low rates.
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

[Matt Kollmer]

--- In WarriorRules@yahoogroups.com, hrisikos@... wrote:
>
hey greek.
I keep it simple...
Elmers glue spread on the base after the figs are glued and dry.
Have an aray of flocks,stones,bushes,gravel ect
I use Sawdust for some grit and variation,
spread these ingredients over the base starting w/ stones gravel or
bushes then moving to finer flock. aply abundently let dry overnight
shake off the excess. I've liked my results, easier no painting
(youv'e done plenty of that by the time you reach this stage!)
happy flockin!
Matt



> Question:
>
> I have just based a bunch of newly painted (or reconditioned)
25mm guys
> on Litko precut plywood bases. I'm very plpeased. However, I'm not
sure
> how to flock. Is there any reason that my 15mm method of painting
the
> bases with 1/2 Elmers Glue and 1/2 dark paint and dipping in blended
> turf will not work. I've seen suggestions abiout using modeling goop
> and such, but I hesitate to embark on a new system, and what's that
> stuff called again?
>
> Also, I put Litko 'flexible steel' on the bootom of the bases,
but it
> doesn't seem to attract to my magnetic sheeting. Anyone have this
> happen before? Explanations?
>
> Thanks for any insight.
>
> -Greek
>

[Bill Chriss]

> --- In WarriorRules@yahoogroups.com, hrisikos@... wrote:
>>
> hey greek.
> I keep it simple...
> Elmers glue spread on the base after the figs are glued and dry.
> Have an aray of flocks,stones,bushes,gravel ect
> I use Sawdust for some grit and variation,
> spread these ingredients over the base starting w/ stones gravel or
> bushes then moving to finer flock. aply abundently let dry overnight
> shake off the excess. I've liked my results, easier no painting
> (youv'e done plenty of that by the time you reach this stage!)
> happy flockin!
> Matt
>
>
>


Yeah. This is basically my 15 mm system, and I plan to stick with it and
see how it works in 25mm. Thanks.

-Greek

>>>> I've always used acrylic gel medium to blend the figure's bases
into their movement stands (in 15mm) to good effect....





So which acrylic gel medium do folks prefer to use? David
mentioned the pumice gel which sounds cool but I also came across
"regular", "heavy" and "extra heavy" gel. The gel medium sounds like
good stuff. I have used assorted spackle, caulk, and putty for 25+mm
miniatures with good results. However, now that I beginning my first
foray into 15mm I find that these are all a bit too "thick" to easily
work around the bases of the minis once they are glued to the stand.
Elmer's glue flows nicely around the base of the minis but is not thick
enough to mound up around the base. This leaves the base of the
miniatures a bit higher than the surrounding stand and I'm not pleased
with that. I tried a testor's model putty which works quite well except
for the fact that fumes are so nasty it's a pain to work with. Heck, my
wife objects to the fumes and she is an organic chemist so you know it's
bad Thanks for the basing tips everyone.





Paul Wilson



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Interesting experience today - having followed this post about stuff
for basing I thought I would venture out into the art supplies shop
and look for some pumice medium. In the shop was a demonstrator from
Windsor and Newton - so I got an opportunity to compare the flint
stuff with the pumice stuff and see how it holds paint - as well as
generally mucking around with it.

I have till now been using a Renaissance Inks flocking gel product
which was fine though expensive and a little smelly.

I am now the proud owner of a much larger and cheaper container of
Windsor and Newton Pumice Texture Gel for Acrylics. I am keen to see
how it works

Adrian

--- In WarriorRules@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Wilson" <pwilson@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >>>> I've always used acrylic gel medium to blend the figure's
bases
> into their movement stands (in 15mm) to good effect....
>
>
>
>
>
> So which acrylic gel medium do folks prefer to use?
David
> mentioned the pumice gel which sounds cool but I also came across
> "regular", "heavy" and "extra heavy" gel. The gel medium sounds
like
> good stuff. I have used assorted spackle, caulk, and putty for
25+mm
> miniatures with good results. However, now that I beginning my
first
> foray into 15mm I find that these are all a bit too "thick" to
easily
> work around the bases of the minis once they are glued to the
stand.
> Elmer's glue flows nicely around the base of the minis but is not
thick
> enough to mound up around the base. This leaves the base of the
> miniatures a bit higher than the surrounding stand and I'm not
pleased
> with that. I tried a testor's model putty which works quite well
except
> for the fact that fumes are so nasty it's a pain to work with.
Heck, my
> wife objects to the fumes and she is an organic chemist so you
know it's
> bad Thanks for the basing tips everyone.
>
>
>
>
>
> Paul Wilson
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>