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Warrior Ancient and Medieval Rules A Four Horsemen Enterprises Rules Set
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John Murphy Legate

Joined: 12 Apr 2006 Posts: 1625
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:29 am Post subject: OT: Spear and shield attachement methods |
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I have some nicely painted Warrior 25's I just got back from the
painter.
To ship safely (very considerate) he sent the spears and shields
seperately wrapped.
I am klutz with this stuff and have no clue how to glue these on -
most 25s I have used in the past always have them falling off or
bending because they are either too loose or too tight.
All the hands are pre-drilled etc, just have to figure out how to
glue the pieces.
Need to use something that dries very clear so as not to obstruct
the paint job, also something not requiring a great deal of manual
dexterity to apply and hold to dry (or a good way to clamp these
things).
Anyone who can help, online or offline?
Sorry for the slightly OT.
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Recruit

Joined: 12 Apr 2006 Posts: 9
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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:46 pm Post subject: Re: OT: Spear and shield attachement methods |
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Many model and train hobby shops sell plastic tips that you stick on the end of
the glue tip. These are long and very, very thin. I would you suggest you get
some of these and practice with them. Get two small pieces of material and
slowly squeeze the bottle until you see the stream of glue inching down the tip.
when you get the right sized bead at the end gently touch it to the intersection
of the parts. Capillary action will pull the liquid into the gaps. It takes
practice but is keeps your paint job nice and clean.
Another related point, more Warrior directed is placing your miniatures on the
bases. Lay out the bases on a inexpensive, replacable surface. You don't want to
glue them to the table! Pre-position the miniatures a stand at a time to the the
correct look for the unit. If it is in keeping with the historical nature and
pose of the miniature, glue the spear to the base and the hand. Christian is
right on this one, if you glue only to the hand the strain will show after a
short while. Try to keep the stands together as you glue them one by one and
make sure that the miniatures don't interfere with each other when placed in
rank and file. I use Essex 25mm which are actually somewhere around 28mm . With
some of my units (pikes) I had to number the bases to make sure they would fit
as a unit. After I was done I realize I should prbably have used one large base
instead of the six individual bases for the unit. Part of the fun of Warrior is
being able to experiment with different
formations, column, block or line. It is easy to glue up a bunch of stands and
find out that, due to overlap of extending parts (spears, axes, horse heads),
you are going to have difficulty changing the units formation. This can slow
game play and case damage to the miniatures when they are moved.
A well done army is important to the enjoyment of the game as it makes the
battles run smoother and adds to the visual effect of the battlefield.
About this being slightly off topic for the group, Jon, when you have some
time, maybe you could post some guidelines about what we should be focusing on.
Harmon Ward
John <jjmurphy@...> wrote:
I have some nicely painted Warrior 25's I just got back from the
painter.
To ship safely (very considerate) he sent the spears and shields
seperately wrapped.
I am klutz with this stuff and have no clue how to glue these on -
most 25s I have used in the past always have them falling off or
bending because they are either too loose or too tight.
All the hands are pre-drilled etc, just have to figure out how to
glue the pieces.
Need to use something that dries very clear so as not to obstruct
the paint job, also something not requiring a great deal of manual
dexterity to apply and hold to dry (or a good way to clamp these
things).
Anyone who can help, online or offline?
Sorry for the slightly OT.
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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