Warrior Ancient and Medieval Rules

Frank and Board,

I put the Swiss in 48 figure blocks (3 E wide by 4 E deep) mainly to avoid
routing and the like. At that size:

1) it takes 9+ figures of JLS/HTW crazies to rout on contact (need 108+
casulties) with a unit rolling +1 to get to more.

2) you can survive shooting, assuming to the front facing LHI and even dice,
of 29 figures of bow (at 3 for shiledless LHI) and 24 figures of LB (at a 4)
before taking the mandatory waver test for being shiledless. Add LI HG to
split shooting.

3) A 2 stand Selucid pike elephant does not push you back on even dice (I
think they cause 30 casulties or something) at first contact allowing you to
beat them the second round undisordered with THCT backed by pike.

4) Being 5 ranks deep (4 of pike and 1 of thct) and 2 wide is too expensive
to count as only 28 figures therefore I go with 3x4.

5) If imp knights go element for element you take only 1 cpf (60 casulties)
on even dice while they take 3 and a disorder and tired with neither side
winning on even dice (Kn 5@5 for 20, pike 8@3 for 20 per element).

6) I try and put a general in every block (2 of three in my NITC army) so I
almost never roll down given the +1 for being Reg A/B and +1 for being Ally
or CinC general. If I do roll -3 (becoming -1) it will be hard for the
opponent to kill my general (I think they need to do 3 cpf for a kill wihich
means 108 casulties).

The cost of each blcok is 329 pts for CinC, 304 for Ally, and 246 for no
general. You can set it up so opponenets have to face a block or a Lorainer
knight to get a 5 (all my skrimishers only cost 284 points).

In the Nationals, I got 5, 2, 2, 1, and 5 points, my opponents 2, 2, 4, 5,
1, with even the 5 and 4 having a chance to win throughout. Actually, even
the games I lost, against Scott MacDonald and Dave Marcowitz, another turn
would have shifted to a 3-3 draw as their knights were in the process of
getting eaten. The only block that routed was to 2 24 figure units of
English longbowmen and me rolling 3 1's in a row, the first to miss my
counter away from English, the second due to 2 cpf, the third when the
english charged against Scott. I was hoping to face more of the pike armies,
Dan W. Selucid in first round, but drew Tim Brown's Neo Assyrian and their
double rider camels, 2x Medieval Spanish with 'required' longbowmen and
Moogs, and finally John Murphy's Free company with their 72 (?) English. Not
great draws, but again, every game I had chances to win and each was really
only decided in the last bound.

The key to playing Swiss is aggression unlike other pike armies as you
need to pressure given your investment in the blocks (879 points) and the
vulnerability to shooting. To the beginner painting the Swiss have fun, but
expect to loose a few. I am 0.500 with the Swiss under old and new rules and
have played them in 5 tournaments now. Also, you need to buy the Lorainers
to be able to catch horse armies and deal with HTW/JLS guys who go through
you like a hot knife through butta'. Don't be tempted by the 0.5 Swiss
SHK/0.5 HC as they are a rout waiting to happen. You need the 100% Lorrainer
SHK. Todd Kaiser as played them extensive in 15 mm nad might have differeing
views. He ran in 10E blcks which is no longer legal (8E pike and 2E THCT)
given the list. Also, assuming playing later, you can't have stone walls and
point that oput to opponents so flaming arrows and the like cannot be
bought.

Sean

ps. forgive the name mispellings please.

****************************************************************************
Sean,

What was your rationale behind putting the Swiss foot into 48 figure
units, and were you fully satisfied with that?

I had considered running Swiss, but using 24 man units (probably 5
of them.)

Was it just vulnerability to shooting?

Frank

Sean - I'm the beginner with the Swiss, and I don't mind losing for
quite awhile. I'm mainly trying to have fun learning the nuances of
the game, and I assume that for the forseeable future I'll be losing
every game I play (unless I can find some other newcomers to try my
lessons out on). The information you're sharing is invaluable though,
and I really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Peter

>To the beginner painting the Swiss have fun, but
> expect to loose a few. I am 0.500 with the Swiss under old and new
rules and
> have played them in 5 tournaments now.

[scott holder]

The information you're sharing is invaluable though,
and I really appreciate it.

>Sean, I really appreciate it as well even though I'll not be playing the Swiss
anytime soon. Sean has taken two armies now, Italian Condotta and Swiss and
stuck to em over the years and has shown that at a fairly high level, you can
make em work.

>Also, it's nice to see interest in the Swiss. That's what the Swiss rules were
designed to do.

scott

Sean

Write and I will print it. Make a comparison between the Swiss and
Ital. in an article for spearpoint.

Eric


--- In WarriorRules@yahoogroups.com, "Holder, Scott" <Scott.Holder@f..
.> wrote:
> The information you're sharing is invaluable though,
> and I really appreciate it.
>
> >Sean, I really appreciate it as well even though I'll not be
playing the Swiss anytime soon. Sean has taken two armies now,
Italian Condotta and Swiss and stuck to em over the years and has
shown that at a fairly high level, you can make em work.
>
> >Also, it's nice to see interest in the Swiss. That's what the
Swiss rules were designed to do.
>
> scott