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Bill Chriss Centurion


Joined: 12 Apr 2006 Posts: 1000 Location: Texas
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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 12:53 am Post subject: Decal softener/solvent |
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I took the suggestion posted here to check out www.micromark.com. I was impresses and just ordered my first bottle of decal softener online. I think this is going to really put the finer touches on my new littlebigmen studios shield transfers, which are awesome. Suggest y'all check it out _________________ -Greek |
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Michael Bard Recruit

Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 9
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Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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When I use the softener, I first stick the transfers on normally (water, slide, pat down). I let the water dry, and then brush the softener overtop. AFter 10 minutes or so I use a dry papertowl and pat off the excess liquid. Then I let it dry overnight. |
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Bill Chriss Centurion


Joined: 12 Apr 2006 Posts: 1000 Location: Texas
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Posted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:11 am Post subject: |
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Thanks. I've done some decals already and figure this method will work once I get my softener, even though the shield decals have been dry, albeit a tad wrinkled, for a couple of weeks. _________________ -Greek |
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ghauser Recruit

Joined: 23 Apr 2006 Posts: 3 Location: rochester, ny
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Posted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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Mike Bard You use decals For shame. I know you paint better than that nothing llike free handing the shield patterns to relly pee yourself when you look at the finished job LOL GREG HAUSER |
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Michael Bard Recruit

Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 9
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 5:49 am Post subject: |
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Greg, I use transfers for the GW stuff I paint (hey! It's simple when I'm too tired to think). I have used some for historicals if it is a common complex shape because transfers simply look better. |
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Kelly Wilkinson Dictator

Joined: 12 Apr 2006 Posts: 4172 Location: Raytown, MO
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 7:23 pm Post subject: Future Floor Wax and LBM |
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Bill,
One suggestion I was given by my friend Mark Duncan (the former Prez of the IPMA International Plastic Modelers Assoc.) is to either use glossy white paint to undercoat your shields or use a flat white matt and then coat the shields with Future non wax acryllic floor wax. This will make the surface smooth and allow for a better surface.
The process that I follow is this.
Step one. Apply a coating of Future to an already overcoated shield.
Step two. Apply shield decal to surface of shield using super sol (a decal softner) and let dry.
Step three. Apply a coat of Future over the whole shield. This serves to seal the whole shooting match.
Step four. Dull cote with the painted miniature.
I hope this helps,
Kelly Wilkinson
PS This seems to work well for me. As evidence, you can ask the moderater of this forum, Mike, what he thinks as he has seen my shields recently. |
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Greg Recruit

Joined: 07 Jun 2006 Posts: 8
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Decals ... what is this hobby coming to!!!
I propose a list rule where you have to play 100 points short for using decals.  |
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Ambrose Coddington Recruit

Joined: 24 Apr 2006 Posts: 38 Location: Orlando Florida
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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The procedure that I use for decals follows much the same process. Gloss coat the area that you want the decal to be applied to. (I use an airbrush to apply gloss varnish to the area that I want to apply the decal. The airbrush really makes a big difference.) Once the decal is dry I dull coat over the decal and the surrounding area. If there are any metal bits I then reapply gloss to the metal areas to keep the luster. This will effectively mask the edge of the decal completely.
Ambrose |
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