Warrior Warrior Ancient and Medieval Rules
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Army Selection/List Advice
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Ewan McNay
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:32 am    Post subject:

Quote:

I'm a pretty new Warrior player (couple games of fast warrior, first full game was this weekend) and am still wrapping my head around the rules. I don't have any WRG experience which a lot of Warrior players seem to be able to draw upon. I don't have the new rulebook yet(due to a ordering mishap with FHE) but have been looking through some of the list books I picked up a while back.


First: welcome! Good to have a new face/voice/player.

Quote:
I'll most likely be playing in 15mm due to local players so my selection criteria also has to do with good looking ranges that are out there. What point size are most games played at? I looked at the NICT lists and they run 1600 but I was wondering if this was the standard.


Yes, the majority of games are played these days at either 1600 or 1200 points. That's semi-locked-in by tournament formats, which hence are locked-in because that's what people play..

Quote:
Later Crusader
HYW English
and some of the big classical players such as
Macedonian
Carthage (love Numidians from other games and have a soft spot for Spanish)
Polybian Roman
as well as everyone needs a steppe army and I like Scythians.


There are some decent choices there, both for armies to learn with and for armies to do well with. I'd pick the Romans as being the least enjoyable to play with, but others would disagree; the Scythians are probably under most circumstnces the hardest to win big with, although they will often be able to have moderate wins. HYW is a pretty simple army to learn with (as is Scythian); Crusaders, Macedonians, and Cartheginians are much more combined-arms forces and hence a little more complex to manouvre correctly. I'd pick HYW first off; it's also easy to paint and not that huge in terms of numbers of figures. You'll suffer from lack of scouting points, though.

Quote:
Reading the NICT commentary it seems like most of the lists used some shock force (usually mounted or elephants) and a lot of other lighter troops to shield/befuddle the opponent while your shock makes the game wining moves. Can games be won with pike/roman foot?


Yes... but it's harder, at least for me. And roman foot are *expensive* as well as slow - but if they get into contact, utterly deadly to opposing foot.

Quote:
Anyways, that's a whole lot of questions for the post but I figured I had a lot to ask.


No worries. If you can, play a couple of games with the armies you're thinking of - personal style has a lot to do with what makes a good army, too.
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scott holder
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 12:10 pm    Post subject:

What Ewan said. Shocked

That being said, if we ignore personal playing style for a minute, definitely go with something that has "few moving parts". One of the perils not only of this game but it's predecessors was new people becoming really enamored of an army like Alex Imp, painting it, then becoming exceedingly frustrated when they lose a lot. And that's the result of trying to master a complex game while at the same time trying to master a complex army.

So, HYW English is a good choice but I'd posit that Early Burgundian (Feudal Warror 36) is even better. Tons of dirt cheap longbowmen and Irr B knights that you can mess around with the SHK/HC option. Again, few moveable parts and and army that's forgiving if you make a mistake....or eight. Wink Plus, if you paint it generically enough, you can use it for HYW English and just about any other western European late medieval period army.

scott

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jamiepwhite
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:40 pm    Post subject: Cheerful bad advice

1. Move to Jacksonville, FL.

2. Build 25 mm armies. The exercise you get from moving a 25 mm army is much larger than a 15 mm army. Be a muscular 25 mm player! Smile

3. Visit Steve's gym weekly.

4. Join the Deep South region

5. Make pilgrimages to the bimonthly Derekcons (25mm tounaments regularly held in this area).

6. 1000, 1200, and 1600 points are common values for lists.

7. Later Crusader - Ugh
HYW English - Yes, plus pick up some spare figs for Medieval Spanish
Macedonian - Yes
Carthage (love Numidians from other games and have a soft spot for
Spanish) - Decent list
Polybian Roman - I like Late Imperial better
steppe army - Not as popular in 25mm due to table space limitations
Scythians - ok

Other armies to think about
Khmer - Very fashionable elephant army
Inca, Aztec, or Auracanian - Everyone needs their own South American
army
Han Chinese - always a fun choice
Anglo Irish - middle period is fun
Anglo Dane - the blob approach, huge units can win

Have fun playing,

Jamie
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Ambrose Coddington
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:20 pm    Post subject:

Lose to Derek repeatedly.
Then lose to Steve.
Then lose to Jamie.

NO NO NO!

Ummm Wait...

Yes moving to Jacksonville is a GREAT idea. Very Happy

I think Scot's suggestion is perhaps the best one to follow. Though not necessarily with generic Knight armies.

Make your choice based on how many figures you can move to a new army without having to buy tons (Literally. Ask Tim Brown) of lead and paint for ever.

The learning process can be painful. The game is ultimately very rewarding though.
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Ewan McNay
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:38 pm    Post subject:

Gorgeous figures. Too bad about the basing Wink)

HYW: the knights are very potent against enemy mounted and much enemy foot. The longbowmen are cheap, regular, and potent; they can be given shields, armour, and 2HCW if desired to make them semi-competent melee troops/decent follow-up troops after the knights charge. You can get Brigans if desired. The SHK/HK combination dismounts as SHI 22HCW, Sh/EHI JLS, which is about the best thing to be and actually OK against elephants, great against pike - so in other words, yes, several tricks available.
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Terry Dix
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:58 pm    Post subject:

Brinton I have a HYWE as well Tuetonic, as for steppe armies I have most of them covered. I think that whatever army you want to learn with Bob, myself or Kevin should be able to provide until you figure out what you want to buy and use full time.

The classical armies generaly are tougher to win with as a new player. The game is complex, so trying to learn it and how to run an army that is complex is a bad idea.
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Peter Celella
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 12:12 am    Post subject:

Ewan McNay wrote:
Gorgeous figures. Too bad about the basing Wink)
.


Yep - I recognize that basing. But Ewan, you know that basing can work if you're playing 30mm Warrior with 80mm frontages. I know that nobody does this yet, but given the ongoing creep with the newest, nicest figures, one of these days it really might make sense to give it a try.

And if 80mm Warrior got played, it would make it easier to recruit some of the people playing with that basing. There's a big pool of potential recruits out there.
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Terry Dix
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 12:15 am    Post subject:

brinton wrote:
Since I paint relatively slowly the army will be a long time coming I think, so plenty of time to play practice games with your HYW Terry.

I'll get a list together, but I'm not even sure if I'm creating them correctly.

Also, how do I find out what my dismounted knights are armed with.

Thanks,

Brinton


Somewhere in the main rules I believe you get the option to use 2hcw or jls. I will check when I get home.
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jamiepwhite
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:11 am    Post subject: More bad advice! :)

First, let me jump in with everyone else and praise your painting. Are you inking the togas of the figs and using decals on the shields? I've tried painting late roman shield patterns free hand and my results are nowhere near yours.

Plan B, every family needs to go on vacation. Let me recommend leaving the significant other on the beach at the Ritz Carlton of Amelia Island on a Saturday while you go in to Jacksonville for a game or tournament. Steve will even drive us!

Jamie
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Ambrose Coddington
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:37 am    Post subject: Re: More bad advice! :)

jamiepwhite wrote:
First, let me jump in with everyone else and praise your painting. Are you inking the togas of the figs and using decals on the shields? I've tried painting late roman shield patterns free hand and my results are nowhere near yours.

Plan B, every family needs to go on vacation. Let me recommend leaving the significant other on the beach at the Ritz Carlton of Amelia Island on a Saturday while you go in to Jacksonville for a game or tournament. Steve will even drive us!

Jamie

Or if you decide that Orlando is the place to Vacation I can drive you up to Jacksonville. I do it for almost all the Derekcons anyway. Smile
Just a thought for when you have been totally Moused out and can't stand Tigger being so bloody HAPPY all the time. (I hate the rat.)
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Mark Stone
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 4:13 am    Post subject: Re: Army Selection/List Advice

brinton wrote:

Armies I'm interested in generally are

Later Crusader
HYW English
and some of the big classical players such as
Macedonian
Carthage (love Numidians from other games and have a soft spot for Spanish)
Polybian Roman
as well as everyone needs a steppe army and I like Scythians.


Later Crusader is a solid army; easily 2nd tier, though probably not quite first tier. The problem is, if played properly, it has a lot of "moving parts". Something to work up to, not something to start with.

Macedonian armies can be first tier, but, as Scott says, also have a lot of moving parts.

Carthaginian can be a fine choice. It has the flexibility to be a complex, top tier army, but it's also a pretty forgiving army: you can put it together in a lot of ways that may not be optimized, but are at least competitive, and it will definitely grow with you as you learn.

Polybian Roman -- well, I don't see that any of our best players have yet figured out how to make the Romans really work well, even though the potential is there. So I'd probably stay away from this one for a while. It's something of an unsolved riddle.

Scythians could be a really great choice. Not quite one-dimensional, as there are enough complimentary elements on the list to make it really competitive, but it has a single dominating theme -- lots of fierce light cav -- that you can work with and understand, and then build on to incorporate more complex elements.

Similarly with 100 Years War English. It has one potent dimension -- shooting -- but some good complimentary elements. And shooting is one of the most forgiving strategies in Warrior. Roll down on shooting and you often live to shoot another day. Roll down in combat, and it's often game over.

So on balance I'd say 100 Year's War English or Scythian, with Carthaginian being another worthy choice.


-Mark Stone
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Frank Gilson
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:23 pm    Post subject: dismounted cav/knight armament

Rule section 6.6, Moving Mounted to Fight on Foot, page 64.

SHK dismount as SHI, EHK and HK as EHI

Knights retain their morale class when dismounting.

As for armament, Rule section 2.33 on page 12.

SHK who have dismounted as SHI fight as if armed with 2HCW. EHK and HK who have dismounted as EHI all count as armed with JLS.

Frank
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Frank Gilson
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:14 pm    Post subject: yes, new rule book much better

The very latest rulebook is much much better, and attractive too!
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