Warrior Ancient and Medieval Rules

[scott holder]

This post is a rave....and most definitely a rant about shield transfers.

I purchased a slew of these and the shields they go with from A and A Miniatures in the UK (http://www.aandaminiatures.co.uk/).

These things look great, that's the rave.

The rant is why are they made so as to be a total pain in the arse to work with? You have to cut out the blank area where the raised spindle boss on the shield occupies. Then you have to cut around the shield. Then you pull off the hard plastic sticky covering. Then you have damn near one shot to get it "stuck onto" the shield, then dab with water, remove the paper backing. Then coat with some kind of decal affixer (Testors makes a crappy version which is all I can find here in Podunk Junction--real cities with real stores carry Walther's Solvaset).

I did 13 shields yesterday and what an ordeal. Now, here's what I can't figure out, why can't these be good ole fashioned decals? That way, I, lazy gamer that I am, wouldn't have to cut out all that crap. Instead, the decal would already be cut to fit the shield in question. Furthermore, if a decal, then I could soak it in water then have plenty of time to get is exactly placed on the shield. Then I could use the decal fixative stuff.

Model railroads have been doing this for, oh, my entire life. As has the model industry with specialized decals. This cutting process is a real pain and the sticky adhesive means you either accept some decals that are a little off in their placement, or you scrape em off and try again.

Don't get me wrong, the A and A transfers are beautiful. But be prepared for a steep learning curve getting them onto even a 28mm shield and if you're obsessive compulsive, you're really screwed.

scott

[Kelly Wilkinson]

Scott,

Unless I'm mistaken, those are Little Bigmen Studios decals. I've done over 400 of those and sometimes it's just easier to cut them in half and take out the plastic in the boss. Additonally, I suggest one of two methods when undercoating the shields.

1. Use a gloss white. Once dried, this will give the decal a slick surface in which to bond much more easily. After applying the shield, paint the appropriate areas and then use future acrylic floor wax with either a brown or black ink (I prefer Windsor & Newton Peat brown or black) The other option is to just use the clear Future. This will not only shade the shield but it will seal it from coming off and give it a nice shiney effect. Note, if you don't like the shiney effect use dull coat over that.

2. You can use Matte White and then you will need to apply a clear coat of Future to seal the shield and to create a surface that is smooth enough for the decal. The rest of the process is just like the above.

3. You can send your shields to me and I will do them for you for free since you have been so kind as to have loaned me figures for the NICT in the past.

Kelly

[scott holder]

Same shields as what you're using. Using gloss white per the instructions that came with em. Still having a helluva time trying to move em around once I've pressed them onto the shield.

Cutting them in half, at least for me, was worse (I did that with four of em). Those little half transfers were a bitch to handle, too small.

As for final coating, that in itself won't be a problem.

I'm guessing that this is like anything else, you do it enough and try hard enough and you get the hang of it. It's still a pain.

scott

[Kelly Wilkinson]

Which army are you doing your shields for? Some seem to be tougher than others.

By the way, if it helps, try using some of those surgical scissors. I've found that they are very good for precise cutting. I also have a neat little device that I use for pressing the shields on. It's a cuticle thingy you find in your wife's fingernail compact. Very nice for pressing on decals.

Kelly

[scott holder]

Cuticle thingie? Believe me, my wife doesn't have a cuticle thingie in her compact. She'd hafta have a compact for that.

But let's say I want to stop someplace on the way home to get some surgical scissors and a cuticle thingie? What might be the best place to stop and what specifically should I look for?

scott

[Ambrose Coddington]

CVS Scot.
Just go looking in the makeup section.
They actually have a rather large selection of neat items for getting fiddly bits to do what you want them to.

[John Murphy]

[quote="Ambrose Coddington"]Just go looking in the makeup section.[/quote]

Ah, the things we have to do for this hobby!

[Kelly Wilkinson]

Basically, as best as I can tell, a cuticle tool is used to push your cuticle (that skin that trys to grow over you finger nails) back. I agree, Osco, CVS, or Walgreens would do the trick. Those surgical scissors on the other hand are awesome.


Kelly

[Kelly Wilkinson]

So, which army are you doing LBM shields for?

K

[Ambrose Coddington]

HAH!

Just hold your head high and proclaim loudly to the universe that women's makeup tools are indeed useful for manly things!

LOL I skulk through those sections too.
Makeup applicators make excellent chalk applicators too.

[jim hayes]

there's also the rub on shield transfers from 'little big men'

http://www.chilternminiatures.co.uk/html/littlebigmenstudios_shield_tra.html

haven't tried yet

[scott holder]

Jim:

Where were you when I was doing hordes of shield transfers for my mighty Samnites?

Actually, what's interesting from looking at this web site is that their rub on shield transfer jpgs are *exactly* like the decal ones from the same company I used. Right down to the order number on the decal sheet.

I would have much preferred rub on decals. That being said, I'm pretty happy with my hybrid 2nd gen Minifig Romans posing as Samnite figures with the shield transfers. I really like this army.

scott